Travel Planner: Cape Town, South Africa

One of the area's oldest estates, the former Swaaneweide aan den Steenberg was granted to four-time widow Catherina Ras in the late 17th century by her lover, Simon van der Stel, then governor of the Cape, making her the first woman to own land in South Africa. She was, by all accounts, wild, and legend has it that she was given to riding her horse naked around the grounds, which might explain van der Stel's generosity. The original buildings on this working wine estate have been painstakingly restored, the gardens manicured to perfection, and the vineyards replanted on the slopes of the Constantiaberg. The original vineyards are now a championship 18-hole golf course. The buildings and contemporary guest rooms are all furnished with antiques. The three Heritage Suites offer exceptional accommodations on two levels. The Khoi Khoi suite, for example, is 1,710 square feet of custom-designed furniture and artifacts that hint at what life could be like if the original hunter-gatherer people of the Cape lived in luxury today. All suites have fully equipped kitchens. The estate's Catharina's restaurant is most famous for its Sunday jazz brunches where people spill outside to eat under the giant oak trees. Don't leave without buying some sauvignon blanc. Pros:

high security; on-site Eduardo Villa abstract sculpture collection; surrounded by mountain views.

not protected from wind; Cape Colonial Suite pool visible from road. www.steenberghotel.com. 21 rooms, 3 suites. In-room: safe, Internet, Wi-Fi. In-hotel: restaurant, bar, golf course, pools, gym, spa, business center, parking. Credit cards accepted. Rate includes: Breakfast.

Spectacular in each season, these world-famous gardens showcase stunning South African flora in a magnificent setting, extending up the eastern slopes of Table Mountain and overlooking the sprawling city and the distant Hottentots Holland Mountains. No wonder the gardens are photographed from every angle. They aren't just enjoyed by out-of-town visitors; on weekends Capetonians flock here with their families to lie on the lawns and read their newspapers while the kids run riot. Walking trails meander through the gardens, and grassy banks are ideal for a picnic or afternoon nap. The plantings are limited to species indigenous to southern Africa, including fynbos—hardy, thin-leaved plants that proliferate in the Cape. Among these are proteas, including silver trees and king proteas, ericas, and restios

(reeds). Magnificent sculptures from Zimbabwe are displayed around the gardens, too.

Garden highlights include a large cycad garden, the Bird Bath (a beautiful stone pool built around a crystal-clear spring), and the fragrance garden, which is wheelchair-friendly and has a tapping rail and Braille interpretive boards. Those who have difficulty walking can take a comprehensive tour lasting one hour (R35, hourly 9-3) in seven-person (excluding the driver) golf carts. Another wheelchair trail leads from the main paths into the wilder section of the park, getting close to the feel of the mountain walks. Concerts featuring the best of South African entertainment—from classical music to township jazz to rock and roll—are held on summer Sundays starting an hour before sunset. But get there early, as the space fills quickly with picnicking music lovers. A visitor center by the conservatory houses a restaurant, bookstore, and coffee shop. Unfortunately, muggings have become increasingly more common in the gardens' isolated areas, and women are advised not to walk alone in the upper reaches of the park far from general activity. www.nbi.ac.za. Admission: R35. Hours: Apr.-Aug., daily 8-6; Sept.-Mar., daily 8-7.